KitCMC so is it possible that plants testing positive for DMV or DCMV could actually have EPRV/EPRS?
That should not be the case with the WSU tests, nor with the recently developed Agdia tests. They have been specifically developed to not react to the DMV-EPRS. Who knows what the Utah tests are catching.
Of the 43 cuttings I took on 2/6, 24 of them are showing roots. The interesting thing about this is that our day length is around 11 hours, 30 minutes (I’m in Hawaii). They were kept outside in an area that normally gets bright shade, though it has been quite overcast this week. Temperatures 65-80 or so and we have high humidity (70-80%) which works to my advantage, I think. If there are some that don’t root, I will put them under lights to see if they prefer that. I am curious to see if the ones that rooted under short days are less sensitive to photoperiod overall.
That's interesting, I wouldn't expect such rooting success with under 12 hours of day length. But, I don't know exactly what intensity of natural light is needed to interrupt the dark period. Is the "Day Length"" oosted on weather sites the same "length of day" a dahlia needs for vegetative growth or does it correspond more closely to "Civil Twilight" or "Length of Visible Light ".
I would have bet money that Honolulu HI was north of San Diego and I would have lost big time. Are you able to grow fully double dahlias year-round (without lights) at your latitude?
I leave my florescent lights on for 24 hours a day. As they get old they put out less light. I put some really bright LED bulbs(cheap ones ,color unknown) on one shelf and there was probably about 40-50% more light than the old florescent shelf. The cuttings rooted faster in the increased light but only by a couple of days and in the big picture that is not enough to change out everything to LED until more of the the florescents wear out. But I was impressed that the LEDS caused green growth and the leaves were bigger and the plants grew taller. More light is a good thing.
I'm still experimenting with the optimal light time parameters. Since I live in a cabin with a loft, leaving lights on 24/7 isn't really an option unless I don't want to sleep too. So, I have my new cuttings in the kitchen and my office area where they have 15 hours of light. Then, after about 2 months of that, I move them upstairs into the loft where they have 12 1/2. Since my goal is to get the ones I grow over the Winter to produce tubers, I've tried going below 12 1/2 (to 11 or 11 1/2) but haven't found that to have any real difference. I know the standard is "above 12 hours they grow feeder roots, below 12 they grow tubers) but if they were outside, they'd still be getting more than 12 hours of light a day in late July/August/early September when they're building tubers so I don't think that's a hard & fast rule.
PNWGal
I agree. Every virus has different properties and modes of transmission. Some viruses are more environmentally stable like TMV, others won't even survive a few minutes of air or sunlight - with or without plant juice. So unfortunately, every discussion about virus transmission has to be specific to a particular virus or virus family.
I wouldn't be worried about spreading viruses between cuttings through the shared water in a tray. The stems of the cuttings would have to be actively infected and release large amounts of virus particles into the water or the soil (unlikely). The water/virus concerns apply primarily to hydroponics or large scale growers who recycle their water multiple times (as in greenhouses).
To avoid spreading absolutely anything between cuttings, one would have to disinfect the plant material and all tools using protocols for tissue culture (orchids for example) plus grow the cuttings under sterile conditions in special containers and growth chambers.
I saw some dahlia growers are planning to do that. I expect they will charge $40+ for each precious virus-free dahlia cutting - which of course will get rapidly infected as soon as it's planted outside....
Virus resistant or at least virus tolerant varieties will really be a better way.
SteveM I was pleasantly surprised, this is the earliest I have taken cuttings. We do have high light intensity at 22 degrees North latitude. However, cuttings I have taken in the fall under similar day length failed to root, I will try again this year. Perhaps they can sense lengthening vs shortening days.
Without supplemental lighting, dahlias do not grow well year round here. Around late September/October, bloom quality declines. I stop watering and they go dormant. The ones I have left growing over winter kind of just stop growing, they keep their leaves but not really growing. An odd flower here or there but with weak stems and poor centers. One of my goals is to add lighting and try growing year round, but I’m not there yet.
HiDahlia Perhaps they can sense lengthening vs shortening days
To me that sounds entirely possible. I am at 33 degrees north and with most varieties the flower quality declines to the semi-double state the third week in October and they quit blooming soon after. Most varieties I grow don't vary from that time by more than a few weeks. With 2 hours of supplemental lighting I can grow through December (after then the soil temp here is too cold to grow dahlias). Without supplemental lighting my plants follow the exact same pattern of decline as you describe and I am not able to root cuttings taken from these very late Fall plants.
It will be interesting to follow your lighting experiments.
I have a question.
I sourced tubers of the same variety from 2 different people this fall and I have them both in my cuttings tray to propagate more. The sprouts on one tuber start out very purple/maroon and stay that way until they get larger, while the other are quite green from the start. Neither are large enough for me to compare full leaves, however it brought a question to mind.
Is it possible for the same variety to produce different colored sprouts? Would it perhaps have to do with where those tubers were initially grown (in this case 1 was nearby and the other from halfway across the country). Or would another factor change the color of the sprout? Or should I assume that one (or both) are mislabeled?
I can't remember ever seeing this but I've only ever sprouted tubers of the same variety that all came from one place or were from my own stock.
"Is it possible for the same variety to produce different colored sprouts?" Yes.
Teddahlia Thank you, Ted!
I watched a clip from a flower farmer in Vancouver, WA who dips their cuttings in mycorrhizal instead of rooting hormone saying this practice results in root development within five days. I thought mycorrhizal is beneficial when there is existing root tissue, but can it also support the development of roots too?
SteveM I've never taken cuttings before! I will go hunting for rooting hormone and mycorrhizal and perhaps muster up the courage to try this year. Can leaf node cuttings be taken when topping plants in the spring? I could also go rustle up some tubers from the crawl space and get started right away!
I have a question regarding pot tubers. Can I take my pot tuber (without the pot) and plant directly in the ground this year? Will I get the same size, quality plant as I do with planting a tuber of the same variety? Or should I use my pot tubers to take cuttings? I think this subject was covered before, I just can't locate. Thanks.
"Can leaf node cuttings be taken when topping plants in the spring? " I have seen this question asked at least 25 times over the years. The technical answer is "yes" if you want to go to the extra effort to root something at the wrong time of the year. And, plant material taken for cuttings from outdoor plants have likely been contaminated with with fungus or insects that would invade your cutting area. And you are generally way too busy to do this as the garden needs your full attention.
Can I take my pot tuber (without the pot) and plant directly in the ground this year? All experienced pot tuber growers plant some of the pot tubers into the ground and grow wonderful plants from them. Will I get the same size, quality plant as I do with planting a tuber of the same variety? The general consensus is that the resulting plants and tubers are better than tuber grown plants. Or should I use my pot tubers to take cuttings? We grew the pot tubers to take cuttings not to plant into the ground. People grow pot tubers to get nice small clumps that are used to make lots of cuttings. Yes, they can be planted into the ground but that is not why we grew the pot tuber.
Note: "without the pot" was part of your question and you can plant the pot tuber into the ground in the pot knowing that it will grow as well as any tuber grown plant but will not be easily divided as the tubers are constricted by the pot. I have about 50 of these to deal with this year and may cut them in half or may just plant the whole clump again but without any pot as it is destroyed anyway.
Teddahlia Hi Ted, on the topic of pot tubers, you mentioned growing some cultivars as pot tubers for multiple years. Do you take cuttings and start a new pot tuber each year? Grow them in the same pot for multiple years? Something else? Last year I followed your method of growing pot tubers above ground and was happy with the results. I liked the idea of not having to dig them, as well as the ability to move them to a protected area if needed (hurricane season is June-November here).
Do you take cuttings and start a new pot tuber each year? Most of the time they are just re-potted.as no time to take cuttings from everything. I had HH Chloe only as a pot tuber for many years and then took some cuttings and grew them in the garden and they were excellent. The UK growers have been doing this for a hundred years.
Teddahlia Thank you for the answers to my questions. In the future, I may start all my cuttings as pot tubers.
